TRANSMISSION MODS

Overview

Without a good solid tranny, the most powerful engine in the world is useless.  If you can't get the power to the ground without breaking stuff, then there isn't a point to building a killer street car.  The stock 700R4s in Thirdgens are pretty good, but if you start putting a lot more power out than a stock L98, you can run into trouble real fast.  So, I decided to beef mine up a little bit.

 

Transmission

TCI 2500 RPM Stall Converter

www.tciauto.com

TCI Shift Kit

www.tciauto.com

TCI Servo

www.tciauto.com

I had the Tranny rebuilt in the summer of 1999 at Terry's Transmission in Syracuse, NY.  They used all TCI parts, and wherever possible used high performance replacements.  The reason that I had the work done was that the converter was on it's way out.  It would vibrate and do all kinds of crazy things when it wasn't supposed to.

I had them add a performance shift kit, a Corvette-style servo, and a 2400 rpm stall speed converter.  Between the Vette servo and the shift kit, car shifts pretty hard.  I can easily chirp the tires going from first to second.  The converter makes a HUGE difference when launching the car.  I can easily hold the brakes, and spin her to about 2500 rpm before the tires break loose.  I love it at a stop light because I can rev it up and as soon as the light turns green, I lift the brake and get on the gas and it takes off a lot better.

 

Tranny Pan

TCI Chrome Transmission Pan w/Drain Plug

www.tciauto.com

TCI Part #: 378011

$39.99 from Summit

When the time came for me to change my tranny fluid, I wanted to make sure that next time I did it, I would be able to use a drain plug instead of just taking the pan off and letting all of the fluid make a huge mess.  So, I had two options...either I could add a drain plug to my existing pan, or I could get an aftermarket pan that had a drain plug already built into it.

I decided to get an aftermarket pan, because mine was getting all scratched up anyways, and had a few big dents in it.  Once I made that decision, I hade one other decision to make...get a steel pan, a cast aluminum pan, and whether or not to get a deeper than stock pan.  I decided right away that a deep pan would not work.  I drive my car all over the place, and the roads here in Syracuse aren't the best, so there are a lot of bumps and pot holes that could present a problem with a deeper pan as far as ground clearance goes.  Aluminum pans usually ONLY come deep, so that took them out of the running as well.  Also, one of the properties of cast aluminum is that it is pretty brittle...it does not bend like steel does.  So, if I was to get a deep pan, and it was to hit something...it wouldn't dent...it would just break off.  That means goodbye transmission fluid, and probably goodbye transmission.

So, after looking all over the place, I finally found the one that I went with.  It is a TCI pan, and it is chrome, and has a drain plug built right into the rear of the pan.

At the same time I changed the pan, I also added a tranny temperature gauge.  The sender had to go in the pan (well, it didn't HAVE to, but it is most accurate in the pan), so before I installed the pan, I put the sending unit for the gauge in it.  You can see that in the pics below.  For more info on the sending unit install, check out the "gauges" section of this site.

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This is a pic of the new tranny pan (obviously) before I installed it.  You can see the 1/2" hole I drilled so I can mount the sender for a tranny temperature gauge.  I made sure that the sender got placed in the right spot so that it didn't interfere with anything inside the transmission.  That would be bad.

 

 

 

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This is a pic of the tranny pan with the sender installed.

 

 

 

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This is what I used to install the sender.  The sender came as just a 1/8" pipe thread, which wouldn't just screw into anything...so I had to put something there for it to screw into.  This is the B&M drain plug kit.  Luckily, the threads on the plug itself matched up with the temperature sender. So, I installed the drain plug, and instead of using the actual plug, I screwed in the sender.

 

 

 

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The outside view of the B&M drain plug.

 

 

 

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Here is the tranny pan installed.  You can see the drain plug on the left side of the picture (towards the back of the pan), and the "other" drain plug/temperature sender sticking out of the side of the pan towards the right side of the pic (on the passenger's side towards the front of the pan).

 

 

Speedometer Gear & Vehicle Speed Sensor
   
   

 

Speedo Gears
(click to enlarge)

Vehicle Speed Sensor
(click to enlarge)

 

 

Tranny Cooler

B&M SuperCooler 24,000 GVW

www.bmracing.com

B&M Part #: 70264

$49.99 from Jegs

Not sure exactly sure how much the tranny cooler helped out the tranny because I don't have a tranny temperature gauge.  But, it is a very high quality piece of equipment, and was easy to install.  I am sure that it does work well, but I basically got it just so I could have a little insurance against cooking anything. 

Basically what it does is put an additional "radiator" for your tranny fluid to go through.  A stock setup puts the tranny fluid flowing "through" the radiator.  With the tranny cooler, it takes the fluid, and sends it through the radiator, then out of the radiator and into the cooler, then back to the tranny.

This shot is from under the front driver's side of the car, looking back towards the radiator.

This is looking from the front of the car towards the back, straight up towards the radiator.

 

This shows the new hose fittings and hose that runs to the tranny cooler.

 

 

Tranny Mount

Energy Suspension Poly Tranny Mount - Red

www.energysuspension.com

Energy Suspension Part #: 3.1108R

 

 

Here is a pic of the tranny mount installed: